Strawberries are one of the best loved of all summer fruits, their sweet red berries are irresistible to almost everyone. Very quick to produce their fruits, strawberry plants are an excellent crop for the amateur. The taste of home-grown garden strawberries is undoubtedly a hundred times better than the commercial varieties. Strawberry plants will yield good crops of fruit when grown in small spaces including a wide range of containers. 'Growbag' cultivation is particularly economical and productive.

Strawberries grow well in the ground, but they can suffer from soil-borne pests and diseases if grown on the same patch for a number of years. Where space is at a premium, strawberries will also fare well for a year or two in grow bags, troughs, pots and hanging baskets, and this approach has several advantages over plants grown in the open. Strawberries in containers can be given a prime position - they prefer a sunny but sheltered spot and being raised off the ground, which helps to produce a more stable microclimate. Containers can be brought under protection (such as a glasshouse or porch) to advance fruit cropping and then replaced once fruiting is over. Container-grown strawberries also suffer from fewer problems with soil-borne pests and diseases, and are at a more convenient height for picking.

Where To Grow

Frost is the first thought when considering where to grow strawberry plants in your garden. They are very hardy plants during the winter but are not so hardy when they burst into life in spring. Strawberries produces flowers early in the spring and because they are close to the ground, it is important to position strawberries where they have least risk of frost. The highest ground is always the best. Frost damage when they start into growth will occur if the temperature drops below -2°C or -4°C.

The next considerations are sun and wind - grow them in the sunniest position in the garden and in the least windy. Too much wind and insects will be unable to pollinate the plants. When preparing pots for planting strawberries, use soilless peat free composts or those with a low loam content, as these weigh less and make heavy containers such as large terracotta strawberry pots more portable.

Choosing Containers

Grow bags are widely used by commercial and home growers for strawberries. Each bag will take around six plants. Grow bags are available from most DIY stores and garden centres. To help stabilise the microclimate and improve air circulation, position the grow bags on a wooden plank (preferably of treated timber) supported about 1m (3ft) above the ground, fixed to treated posts 7.5cm (3in) in diameter driven 45cm (18in) into the ground, or to a free-standing timber support, plastic crates or concrete blocks. Grow bags can also be placed directly onto upturned crates or boxes. A rail at each end with a 15-cm (6-in) wide, rigid, small-mesh net stretched along each side will support the fruit horizontally, which helps to improve the sugar content. Yields of around 0.5 kg (1 lb) of fruit per plant can be achieved.

Troughs and window boxes can be used in much the same way as grow bags and allow proprietary or homemade composts to be included. Most strawberry cultivars are suitable for hanging baskets, and the pink-flowered cultivars such as 'Viva Rosa' are particularly attractive.
Water by hand or via drip lines, varying frequency according to the time of year, season and position of the containers. Strawberry plants in grow bags, pots, troughs and hanging baskets should remain moist but not waterlogged, and may require watering more than once a day in the hottest conditions.

As soon as growth commences in spring provide a balanced liquid feed (with similar levels of nitrogen and potassium) each week. (Again can be bought ready made from garden centres and DIY stores). During flowering and fruiting use a high-potash feed such as a tomato fertiliser and then revert to a balanced feed if the plants are to be kept for a second year. Strawberry plants that are overfed will produce lush leaf growth at the expense of fruit. A winter chilling will help plants flower effectively. Keep the containers at ground level in a sheltered situation and if severe frosts are forecast cover with frost protection such as horticultural fleece or straw, which should then be removed during the day.

Soil Preparation

Strawberries do not produce deep roots, but they very much appreciate their soil being well dug to a spades depth. Prepare the soil at least one month before planting. Incorporate as much organic matter as possible and include two handfuls of bone meal (or equivalent) per square metre. A few days before planting apply the recommended dose of general fertiliser such as 'Growmore.' Strawberries are greedy feeders over a relatively short period of time.
When To Plant

Summer fruiting strawberries (the type seen in most shops) can be planted in early September or early April. The best results undoubtedly come from planting in early September, although if your area suffers heavy winter frosts, it is best to wait until mid April. Perpetual strawberries should be planted in mid April. For both types, wait until the soil is crumbly and not waterlogged. It is possible to grow what are called 'companion plants' near strawberries. The purpose of this is to attract bees that would ensure pollination of the strawberries. One might suggest Borage (Borago officinalis) a herb , that is also known as the 'Bee plant' as its big blue flowers attract Bees.

Pests And Diseases

Container-grown strawberries generally suffer from fewer diseases than those in the ground, but can attract pests, especially under glass. Aphids may infest spring growth, transmitting viruses that debilitate plants. Spray at the first sign of damage with a proprietary insecticide suitable for strawberries such as one containing bifenthrin or malathion. I suggest an organic insecticide.

Two spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) can be a problem, particularly in warmer situations, and is best controlled with the predatory mite Phytoseiulus persimilis, provided no pesticides are being used.

Vine weevil larvae (Otiorhynchus sulcatus) are unlikely to be a problem in the first year, but plants grown on for a second year may be affected. Treat in August by watering in a proprietary brand of nematodes, which parasitize the larvae.